I landed in Bangkok just before England’s World Cup Final victory over Australia in Sydney at the start of November 2003. I spent a couple days hanging with Sarah and trying to find Tash before I took one of the most uncomfortable bus rides of my life to Krabi. 12 hours of hell. Krabi lies on the Western Coast of the thin perninsula that snakes off the south of the country. At Krabi I picked up a ‘long tail’ boat taxi that took me an hour up the coast to Ralei. From Ralei I took another long tail the short trip around the point to the small beach community of Ton Sai. The beach is about 1km long, pristine white sand, dotted with the odd long tail and gently lapped by the warm clear Andaman Sea. Nestled amongst the bush at the back of the beach are a number of beach bars. Back from that is a network of paths winding amongst bamboo huts, the odd shop and restaurants. Ton Sai is totally isolated from all normal forms of regular mainland civilization. There are no roads or cars, all supplies come in by boat and as there is no mains, electricity comes from petrol generators. Beyond the settlement is thick jungle ringed by enclosing limestone cliffs. It was for these cliffs that I had come here.

I stepped off the long tail onto the beach only to be greeted from one of the beach bars by my long lost climbing partner Tash. We found ourselves a good hut at one of the guest houses and set about climbing the rock.

Thailand is famed around the world as a destination for steep, safe sport climbing. Huge limestone towers jut out of the crystal Andaman sea and steep walls dripping stalactites rise right out of the beach. Idealic. The weather is normally good but the rock gets real greasy if you find yourself climbing in the sun, so shade is imperative. Ton Sai is one of the recognized hubs of the Thai rock scene and is patronised by a healthy collection from the international climbing brigade. I would estimate the population of Ton Sai at any given time would be in the region of 500, of which 250 would be visiting climbers. Life is easy, relaxed, chilled. Prices are cheap! I reckon you could live off $20 a day easy.

Morning one and I woke up feeling like I had been hit by a train. Stomach cramps; the shites; no air conditioning; no flushing toilet; jungle humidity: unpleasant. For three days I sweated it out unable to eat or drink. Tash was awesome and as I got to the stage where I could no longer go for help myself she went to Ralei and got me some antiboitic and Imodium. 24 Imodium in 30 hours later and I had been plugged and was on the mend. However I would never fully recover from this initial setback. My climbing was weak and unmotivated but I had a great time chilling out and did get some reasonable routes done. Chris & Tash see you guys soon.